“While the bazaar atmosphere of Bugis Street continues today, the night bazaars of the 1950s to 1980s along the area dazzled in a different way.”
This quote by The National Heritage Board is an elegantly phrased reflection of Bugis’ colourful past; a past which gained international recognition in the 50s for its nightly cabaret shows performed by the transvestite community. A history starkly dichotomous to the nation's usual state rhetoric.
Due to this, it is one which is somewhat white-washed following its revamp in the 80s, with the only remaining indicator being the name itself. The name refers to the seafaring people of Sulawesi who settled in Singapore, pioneering it to become the regional trading hub that it is today. The Bugis people, originally Hindus, were converted with the arrival of Muslim missionaries, with the majority of today’s community embedded within the Malay culture.
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| Bugis and Capital Mall |
Upon exiting the Bugis MRT and scurrying through the bustling grind of Victoria Street, I noticed there existed little to no resemblance of this colourful past. Without prior knowledge, I would have been completely unaware as to the cultural and historical significance of this neighbourhood. The area simply reflected to me a meticulously cultivated modern metropolis. Such insights have helped grow my business acumen, teaching me to look beyond surface level factors and consider other deeper contextual and cultural factors.
Since my arrival in Singapore, it was constantly reiterated that an individual's food choices often reflect their ethnicity, their felt ethnicity or more broadly their identity. This idea became increasingly apparent during my observations. My initial impressions of Victoria Street were that it was littered with food chains and exuded consumerism.
However, when exploring deeper it became apparent to me that the food available was unrepresentative of the Malay culture or any one distinct culture. It housed a diverse range, from Popeyes to Garibaldi’s Italian Restaurant to even contemporary Australian food. The food available to me diverted from this traditional standpoint and, in my opinion, represents the shifting landscape and demographic of Singapore and Bugis. This heritage precinct, now deeply infused with art, culture and fusion food, alludes to the growth and ever-changing global identity of both Singapore and its citizens.
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| Artichoke Cafe and Bar |
Having borne these pre-conceptions, I was expecting to see extensive evidence of traditional Malay culture within the area. These pre-conceptions of traditionalism were heavily contradicted early on, most prominently when I ventured to Artichoke Café & Bar. The walls were coated with posters, LED lights grabbed my attention and the blaring sound of 90’s hip hop filled the al fresco dining area. I was astounded by the atmosphere, housing that of a younger working demographic. It whole-heartedly encapsulated the shifting landscape, oozing this idea of modernity.
As best epitomised by the chef himself, Bjorn Shen, “Artichoke is probably the least authentic restaurant around. And that's exactly how it should be.” The menu accommodated items such as "Squid ink couscous" and "Lambgasm". Initially, I stood there simply perplexed, prompting a state of reflection about my initial preconceptions.
It resonated with me that the premise of the restaurant was not to divert away from these traditional identities and cultures, but to simply try encapsulating a more relevant "Singaporean identity". The food available infused and drew inspiration from traditional flavours, adding a modern twist and scenery more suited to the shifting identity. As a Business Information Systems major who examines systems and proposes improvements to adapt to current circumstances, it’s been fascinating to see this in practice in relation to the adaption of cultures and identities.
Moving further into the Bugis and Bras Basah area, this idea only became more apparent when visiting Chijmes, an Anglo-French Gothic chapel refurbished for dining and entertainment purposes. I stood there astounded at the ornately constructed masterpiece, which stands in stark contrast to the central business district in which it resides. Now home to 23 restaurants and cafes, to me, like Artichoke, it has attempted to shape a modern identity for the precinct. It has conserved this traditional element through its distinct architecture and infused a modern appeal through its diverse food offerings: an attempt to maintain the old rustic charm of Singapore, yet convey a modern ambience.
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| Chijmes |
The subsequent growth of Singapore has prompted this gradual shift in identities away from the distinct Chinese Malay Indian Others (CMIO) ethnicity model. The emergence of fusion food has helped cultivate and illustrate this shift, one which is strongly apparent within the Bugis and Bras Basah communities.
If you had asked me at the beginning of the trip about Bugis, I would have neglectfully answered that it was on the downtown line, a few stops from Stevens. However, upon engaging on the trail and the Singapore Immersion Program, it’s reshaped my understanding of the role food plays in terms of articulating one’s identity. The shifting role food plays in society illuminates the idea that no one’s identity is of a static nature. The program has further taught me to challenge my predispositions and question everything.
Overall this has been truly a tremendous experience. I’d personally like to thank the Department of Foreign Affairs’ New Colombo Plan for providing the funding and support for this program. I’d further like to thank our unit coordinator Dr Jeaney Yip for the effort she put into planning the program and ensuring we had both an enjoyable and unforgettable experience.
Written by
Samuel Carroll
Bachelor of Commerce (Liberal Studies)
Majoring in Finance and Business Information Systems
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