Singapore – a nation connected by food, but are traditions being overrun by Western influence and rapid economic development?

Prior to departing Australia my knowledge of the Singapore cuisine was almost non-existent. I believed Singapore was filled with expatriates from numerous countries and as such thought that the food culture was one of insignificance.

How wrong I was! Over the past two weeks my initial perceptions of food proved to be extremely naive. I have been exposed to a country where food is the underpinning foundation of its identity and the plate is used to convey and express the intricacies of an extremely complex and unique history. The influences of the Malay, Chinese and Indian culture all seep through in their own right resulting in food with dynamic, vibrant and explosive flavours that I can now distinctly attribute to being Singaporean. Further, the citizens recognise how this combination of flavour and culture create something unique. Everyone we interacted with, from Jeremy, a tour guide to associate professor Siok spoke with an enormous amount of pride for their country and identified as ‘distinctly Singaporean’ opposed to Malay or Chinese. There was also a clear passion for Singaporean food culture, apparent through Raymond and his son David who have a catering business aiming to maintain the Peranakan food traditions.

However, the Western influence also seems to be growing, perhaps due to the rapid economic growth. This is most evident in the shopping scene as huge global brands dominate Orchard Road. However, Western culture also seems to be infiltrating the food scene. This can be seen through the emergence of food courts such as FOMO, where traditional practices are replaced for comfort and a modernised take on hawker markets.

Even when there is a deliberate effort to maintain heritage, gentrification is inevitable. Places such as ‘Awfully Chocolate’ pride their image on maintaining culture, however everything from the layout of the store to the style of their dishes is shaped by changing and contemporary consumer preferences. 

This led me to think, could the pace and speed at which the consumer operates be shaping a new face for Singapore food culture as we move forward into a new era, or will traditions stand the test of time?

I for one believe tradition and new, more modernised preferences and way of life can coexist. Whilst there is no doubt the landscape of food is changing, this does not have to be at the expense of traditions. Whilst on my trail in Bugis I came across a street that perfectly captured this changing landscape. A giant shopping mall was perfectly juxtaposed to a number of small family run bakeries and shops. Standing in-between a multinational coffee shop, in Starbucks that is primarily concerned with their bottom line and a small Chinese diner that was filled with culture, heritage and character it became clear that modernity and tradition could coexist. It seemed the sheer size and magnitude of the shopping centre and the corporate giants that inhabited its walls, could at any point consume and overrun these small, family run shops. Nonetheless, here the two sat, existing in perfect harmony with consumers seamlessly floating between the two. It was not a battle between two eras, one was not a threat to the other, they complemented each other and offered things the other couldn’t - creating a plethora of options for consumers and a food lover’s paradise.

A contrast between the old and the new sit side by side

The overwhelming support for hawker markets to be placed on UNESCO also makes it abundantly clear Singaporeans value the customs and backgrounds that have shaped the present. Hawker culture and the masses of people that eat there every day represent the pride Singaporeans hold for their heritage and shows how admits a global economic hub traditions and core values remain unchanged from yesteryear.   

Ultimately, regardless of the direction and the influences that shape the future of food in Singapore it is clear food will always play a crucial role within Singapore’s society. As heard through Faizah, food is a vehicle that is used to establish and build relationships and communities. From the early time when food was a currency and used as a bridge that connects cultures and religions, to the present, food has and always will be the glue that holds a diverse community together. 

I can also safely say thanks to the New Colombo Plan program (and Dr Jeaney Yip!), I will return home with greater perspective of different cultures. I have learnt so much through my time in this country and my view on the food culture in Singapore is almost the polar opposite of that when I arrived. I now understand the Singaporean identity is one built around food and have seen first hand how the food culture in Singapore is dynamic and constantly has global influences acting on it - evident through little pockets of every cuisine, ranging from Italian to Mexican scattered around the city.

Written by Harry Morrison
Bachelor of Commerce, Finance and Accounting