The Peranakans are a small but extremely distinct community in Singapore, whose culture manifests a confluence of colonial and indigenous influences. Food is arguably the most significant legacy of the Peranakans, and continues to portray a distinct role in the preservation of cultural heritage. As part of the New Colombo Plan Immersion Program coordinated by Dr. Jeaney Yip, I embarked on an individual “trail” to learn more about this unique subculture. The eastern corner of the city-state is renowned for its rich and colourful colonial history, a key piece of Singapore’s transformation from a fishing port to the global commercial hub it is today.
My first destination was the Peranakan Museum. Nestled in the corner of Armenian Street, its neoclassical architecture is reminiscent of the Straits Settlement bungalows occupied by the earliest Peranakans in Katong during the 1950s. Despite its size, the exhibitions express volumes about the pride the community takes in its unique culture.
From the museum, I ventured further east towards Katong along East Coast Road. The bricolage of interacting colonial, modernising and nostalgic motifs translates to an extraordinary culinary setting that undermines the simple dichotomies often used to classify the dynamics of Singaporean cuisine, such as modern/traditional or local/global. Amid the juxtaposition of acai bowl cafes and traditional kopitiams, a sense of cohesion from the shared heritage architecture remains.
 |
| Juxtaposition of traditional shopfronts and hipster-style cafes on East Coast Road |
Dotted among the vibrant mix of modern cafes, parlours and fusion restaurants, there are old-world kopitiams, earnest traditional shopfronts, boutiques and heritage homes to be found, insistent upon preserving an authentic space for Peranakan tradition. While some contribute to the oxymoron of “constructed authenticity”, Rumah Bebe is a heritage home that emulates much of the physical antiquity by which Peranakan culture is characterised; an ode to the traditional motifs pursued by elder generations who grew up in “old Singapore”.
 |
| Peranakan delicacies outside a shopfront on East Coast Road |
 |
| Rumah Bebe Peranakan Heritage Home |
Openly displayed, brightly-coloured delicacies are a token of the geographical influences that shaped Peranakan cuisine: a blend of tropical flavours including coconut, pandan (a fragrant banana leaf), and palm sugar. Because of the confluence of Malay and colonial heritage, Peranakan cuisine has observed many aspects of the Indigenous Malay cuisine and tailored it to foreign acquired tastes. The availability of ingredients at the time has led to a distinct local cuisine that uses glutinous rice and tropical fruits for most desserts, while an affinity for aesthetics has inspired the use of natural colour-dyes, such as the green pandan leaf and the blue-pea flower, to enhance the visual appeal of food.
 |
| Kueh Sarlat Cake and Kopi-C at Sinpopo Cafe. Blue-pea flower gives the cake its deep blue colour. |
What struck me was how colourful and visually appealing the cultural artefacts were: the garments, the buildings, the food. At the time, I thought the aesthetics purely served as a marketing point to attract the newfangled youth; however, upon reflection I now realise that it is this very aspect of culture that is important to the Peranakans, one that has remained relevant and perpetuated over time.
 |
| Vibrant fusion decor along the shopfronts on East Coast Road |
Underpinning the mosaic of bustle and vibrancy is an underlying paradox relating to the preservation of cultural heritage through food. I was interested in the way that people elected the aspects of culture they wished to preserve and capitalise upon, manifesting a tension between entrepreneurial spirit and a penchant for nostalgia. Within vibrant facades of European pre-war architecture, vendors appear to self-reflexively project their heritage. Establishments serve foods bearing little resemblance to Peranakan culture and a much greater relevance to that which people are interested in consuming in the moment, all the while championing “true local Peranakan cuisine” in their shopfronts, legitimising and commodifying the culture for tourists. The eateries themselves embody a paradox of conflicting objectives and projects. For example, Sinpopo, a modern café style eatery on Joo Chiat Road, claims on the first page of its menu that it is “not just some hipster café”, despite its media reputation for being exactly that, (as part of its appeal). In a similar vein, fusion restaurants attempt to emulate traditional dishes by tailoring their preparation to the physical and time constraints of modern day dining, eroding traditional methods in the process to remain relevant in a commercial context.
Curiously, in the world of commerce, recognition of culture as impartial to major global business issues is an issue that is constantly overlooked. In an increasingly globalised world, it is becoming more important than ever to understand the nuances of cultural identity and how these impact social and commercial behaviours. The New Colombo Plan Singapore Immersion Program offers an opportunity to bridge these perceived gaps, develop invaluable skills, network and gain humbling insights about business at least and people and the world at most. A special thanks to Dr. Jeaney Yip for coordinating the program; a vivid, deeply rewarding and truly enlightening experience.
Written by Sabrina Zeng
Bachelor of Commerce and Arts
Majoring in Business Information Systems, Management & Anthropology
No comments:
Post a Comment